The Spanish Doll
The Spanish Doll wears a traditional outfit from Lagartera, a municipality in Toledo, Spain. The Spanish Doll's outfit represents Toledo's long history of textile production and demonstrates a connection to the religious festival of Corpus Christi (Ayuntamiento de Lagartera; Gerli 290).
In the 16th century, Toledo was renowned for its decorative hand-woven linens and silks (Puñal Fernández 272). Some key features of Toledo's embroidery are satin stitches, double-running stitches, and featured Coptic motifs (Gonzalez). In 1348, Toledo's Silk was used to produce valuable veils recorded as being sold to even the high nobility, for example, the queen Doña Leonor of Portugal owned a silk veil from Toledo (Rozas 412).
Textile Production in Toledo, Spain
Silk has held a significant trade and ceremonial role in various cultural contexts (Lara 208; Rozas 412).
Toledo was the largest mercantile center of the interior of the Iberian Peninsula until it was eventually overtaken by Madrid (Puñal Fernández 294; Weisser 151). During the fifteenth century, Spain became a significant decorative textile producer, and by the sixteenth century, urban textile production became centralized in concentrated workforces (Puñal Fernández 272; Weisser 152).
Toledo was a significant centre for textile production, focused on creating middle-quality silks, velvet, linens, wool, and cotton (Puñal Fernández 275, 281, 294). Toledo had a significant number of specialized textile artisans who facilitated the growth of the silk industry (Puñal Fernández 286). Many artisans even came to Toledo to learn from its skillful experts (Puñal Fernández 292).
The development of Toledo's silk industry was mainly a result of companies such as the González-Pinelo company, which established large-scale workshops and took over the market for silk's raw materials (Rozas 414-423). The raw materials produced in Toledo, such as wool, were internationally desired and faced low tariffs to increase their trade (Puñal Fernández 275). In 1492, Toledo's textile dyeing regulations were so successful that Madrid requested to use them as a model (Puñal Fernández 284). However, towards the end of the sixteenth century, Toledo's growth in both commercial sectors and population halted, potentially due to sharp increases in taxes (Weisser 154).
Additionally, the decorative textiles from Toledo often featured embroidered designs by the Renaissance, the style grew to feature beads and silk threads, which then became a staple in later designs (Gonzalez; Lagartera City Hall).
The traditional Lagarteran outfit, seen on the Spanish Doll, features components produced by textile artists and is embellished with detailed embroidery. This iconic outfit is still commonly worn during important events such as weddings and festivals like Corpus Christi (Ayuntamiento de Lagartera).
The Corpus Christi Festival
The Feast of Corpus Christi is a Catholic festival celebrated sixty days after Easter and is uniquely outdoors (Gerli 290). Corpus Christi has been celebrated in Toledo since at least 1493 and is centred around a public procession (Gerli 291).
The procession starts at the Cathedral of Toledo and begins as the Archbishop of Toledo carries the body of Christ, the Eucharist, in the Monstrance of Arfe (on the right) out into the street (Spanish Fiestas.Info). The Monstrance is placed on a float or platform decorated with flowers, tapestries, and other plants (Ayuntamiento de Lagartera; Gerli 290). The streets are decorated. The roads are layered with grasses, herbs, fennel, and basil to fill the air with soft aromas (Ayuntamiento de Lagartera). The procession may be followed by individuals assuming the role of figures involved in Christ's life, such as angels, prophets, and saints (Gerli 291).
The processions even included performances of plays (Gerli 291). The most widely known play, which is still performed today, is Festa de Elche or Miste (Gerli 291).
The Corpus Christi Festival still occurs today, and the Spanish Doll is dressed in traditional Lagarteran clothing, with a candle, to likely represent her attending the Festival. The Spanish Doll is a thoughtful and detailed representation of the material and cultural history of Lagarteran women.
To experience the Spanish Doll Exhibit in a digital 3D space:
- Follow the link below and download the "Windows" folder.
- Open the .exe file, open the Exhibit.
The Spanish Doll 3D Exhibit Download Files (https://utoronto-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/brianna_silva_mail_utoronto_ca/EtHYXC1YeOdNlmEg0LJ8SkUBKDyKJicTdLLNvz-ziHLRMw?e=WUpACD)
If you do not have a Windows desktop computer, enjoy the video walkthrough below.